
When considering this region of France, it’s impossible to escape the subject of cognac. This famous local brandy obviously takes its name from the Cognac area but has now become an international brand all of its own. For visitors to Poitou-Charentes one of the great lures is a chance take a cognac tour around the famous firms or maisons as they are called. And of course to have a taste of cognac at the same time if they can!
Unsurprisingly a mini industry in and around Cognac has sprung up, devoted to the history of cognac, tasting it and going on cognac tours. As well as the big maisons such as Martell, Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Courvoisier, Otard and Camus to visit there’s also the permanent Cognathèque exhibition to visit in Cognac. In addition there’s also the Musée des Arts du cognac (Maco) which does its bit for the local industry that made the town famous – and wealthy – by housing a permanent exhibition on the history of the drink and how it’s made.
Cognac country
But visitors should not neglect either the many excellent small local producers that can be found through the cognac area. Indeed it is rather larger than some might imagine. Rather like champagne, cognac itself can only be called this if it is made with grapes grown within a certain area – this includes much of the Charente, the Charente-Maritime and parts of the Deux-Sèvres. It is divided into six different zones, with the two considered to produce the best cognac being the Grande Champagne immediately around Cognac and Petite Champagne just to the south east of the town.
There are strict rules on what grapes can be used to make cognac – Ugni Blanc is the variety most often used – and about the process involved. Cognac is made with what is called eaux-de-vie. This is produced by double distilling the white wine that comes from the local vines. Moreover, the distillation has to take place in a copper alambic charentais or Charentais still. This liquid is then aged for a minimum of two year in oak casks to allow the cognac’s flavours to develop.
The final product is then graded according to its age: VS (Very Special) is the youngest cognac, though it must have been aged for at least two years VSOP (Very Special Old Pale) has to have been aged for a minimum of four years XO (Extra Old)/Napoleon is the oldest cognac, having been aged for at least six years.
These names and strict rules for methods of production stem from cognac’s long history. Before cognac was first made, the area around Cognac was a recognised as a wine-growing area, the wine transported down the River Charente to the coast for export and for drinking on board ships.
It was discovered that if the wine was first distilled it not only took up less space but it also improved with age in the oak casts in which it was stored. The Dutch merchants who were behind much of the trade called this product 'brandewijn' meaning ‘burnt’ or distilled wine - hence the name ‘brandywine’, which was shortened to brandy.
Down by the river in the town of Cognac are the blackened chais (warehouses) that still store barrels of cognac. Their blackened state is caused by the alcohol evaporating into the surrounding air. The locals say this is ‘the angels taking their share’ - the truth is less romantic as the culprit is a tiny fungus that thrives in the alcohol-laden atmosphere!
TAKING A COGNAC TOUR: THE GREAT COGNAC HOUSES
Martell
Address: Place Edouard Martell, 16100
Cognac visits from 1 April to 31 October, Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm, Saturdays and Sundays noon to 5pm (closed Sundays in October)
Shop open until 6pm.
Tel: 05.45.36.33.33.
Admission: €7 per adult, €3 for those aged 12-18, €4 per head for groups.
www.martell.com
Camus
Address: 29, rue Marguerite-de-Navarre, 16100
Cognac guided visit followed by a smelling/sensory test, June to September, 2pm to 6pm on Mondays, 10.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday, duration one hour thirty minutes.
Shop open 10am to noon, 2pm to 5pm.
Tel: 05.45.32.72.96.
Admission: €7 per adult, free below 18, €3.50 per person for groups of 10.
www.camus.fr
Courvoisier
Address: 2 place du Château, 16200
Jarnac visits from May to September 10am to 6pm every day (closed Saturdays in May and September.
Tel: 05.45.35.65.16.
Admission: €3 per adult, €2.30 per person per group
www.courvoisier.com
Otard
Address: Château de Cognac - 127, boulevard Denfert-Rochereau, 16100 Cognac.
Visits in period costume in April, May, June, September and October: Monday to Sunday, at 11am, 2pm, 3.30pm and 5pm. July and August: Monday to Sunday, at 11am, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm and 6pm.V isits November and December: Monday to Friday (except bank holidays) at 11am, 2pm, 4pm.
Shop open 10am to noon, 2pm to 6pm (5pm Fridays). July and August: 10am to noon, 2pm to 7pm. November and December: 10am to noon, 2pm to 6pm (5pm Fridays).
Tel: 05.45.36.88.86.
Admission: €7 adults, €3.50 for those aged 12 to18, €4 for groups.
www.otard.com
Rémy Martin
Address: Le Domaine Rémy Martin, Avenue de Gimeux, 16100 Merpins
Visits from mid-April to mid-October, Monday to Saturday. Duration: one hour thirty minutes. Reservation recommended
Admission: €15 per adult, €7 for those aged 12 to 18, and €12 per person per group.
Tel: 05 45 35 7 .66.
www.remymartin.com
La Maison Rémy Martin
Address: 20, rue de la Société Vinicole - 16100 Cognac
Visits all year by appointment. Duration: two hours.
Admission: €25 per adult, €14 for those aged 12 to 18, €7 for under 12’s.
Tel: 05 45 35 7 .66
www.remymartin.com
Hennessy
Address: Les Quais Hennessy, 16100, Cognac
Visits to the Maison de cognac Hennessy take place Monday to Sunday from 10am to 5.30pm. It’s advisable to book in advance.
Admission: Between €9 to €45, depending on which tasting you choose.
Tel 05.45.35.72.72 or 05 45 35 72 68
www.hennessy.com
Cognathèque
A permanent exhibition devoted to cognac where you can see and buy 450 different cognacs as well as 50 types of pineau.
Address: 8 place Jean-Monnet, Cognac, is open every day 9am to 7pm, admission free.
Tel: 05.45.82.43.31. or visit www.cognatheque.com
Musée des Arts du cognac (Maco)
It has a permanent exhibition that charts the history, the techniques and the economic impact of cognac. Situated in rue des Remparts, place Salle verte in Cognac, the museum is open every day from 10am to 6.30pm until September. Admission for adults €4, free for the under 18s. Reduced tariffs available. Tel: 05.45.36.21.10.
Les Bonnes Chauffes
Each year, during the months of December to February winegrowers and distillers throw open their doors to visitors over the weekend for free distillery visits plus tastings of cognac and of pineau. A number of restaurants also get involved with menus based on local products and of course cognac and pineau - some also put on musical events to create a real feeling of fun and festivity. For a full list of participating growers and their opening hours, and participating restaurants see www.cognacetapes.com