Ideas for Great Days Out in the Charente
There's plenty to do in this picturesque part of the world. Here are a few suggestions...
The taste of Cognac and fun on a gaberre
The best – and most historic – cognac houses are in the area immediately around the town of Cognac, and taking a tour is a must if you holiday in this region. There are plenty of cognac houses to choose from – see our full list – and all offer tastings. Before or after your tour, explore the town of Cognac, especially the old town whose narrow streets are lined with medieval timber framed houses and handsome 16th century mansions that were once home to wealthy merchants. Also take a trip down the river on a gabarre, a traditional flat-bottomed oak boat once used to transport cognac, salt and other produce but now used for a leisurely cruise down the river Charente (see the Cognac tourist office for tickets).
The beautiful village of Aubeterre-sur-Dronne
Officially designated one of the Poitou-Charentes’ most beautiful villages. Take in the red-tiled roofs, steep cobbled streets lined with shops and studios in which artisans make and sell pottery and other crafts. The typically French town square lined with linden trees is the perfect place to stop for a coffee or more. Unmissable is the underground church of Saint-Jean, carved out of the cliff face by monks back in the 12th century. Twenty-seven metres high, it is said to have taken 100 years to complete. Read more
The hilltop town of Angoulême
Head for the main town which fans out from the bustling Les Halles, the covered market that’s a beautiful example of 19th century metal work. From there wander through the winding cobbled streets, walk the remparts (old walls) and take in the views, see the spectacular cathedral and other historic buildings. After lunch in one of the many excellent restaurants, choose from a number of museums including the Musée D’Angoulême that covers archaeology, French paintings and sculpture plus has a complete reconstruction of a 19th century salon. Down by the river is the internationally famous Cité Internationale de la Bande Desinée et de l’Image - inside, it’s rather like the set of 2001: a Space Odyssey! Read more.
For a taste of past traditions, at the refurbished Moulin du Verger (www.moulinduverger.com), four kilometres south of Angoulême at Puymoyen, paper masters Jacques Brejoux and Christopher Clarkson, and book restorer and binder Nadine Dumain have revived the trradition of papermaking, both afor every day papermaking and for artistic uses of paper.
At the beautiful old mill, you can see how paper is made and the uses to which it can be put. If you have the time you can take courses in papermaking and bookbinding. And naturally, there are plenty of paper products from books to artwork for sale. The tour lasts about 45 minutes and can be in English. It's open all year on weekdays and visits cost €3.
La Rochefoucauld château and restored mills
Dominating the town of La Rochefoucauld, this castle is an unusual mix of a solid Romanesque square keep, fairytale-style turrets, elegant cloisters and a sweeping spiral staircase. Kids will love the dressing up room where they - and their parents - can don garments from medieval times. After lunch head out of town along the river to see one or more of the mills that have been restored to working use. Moulins de Menet and de Chabrot in nearby Montbron both date back to the 19th century, and make different kinds of flour. The Moulin de Chabrot also bakes its own bread. Moulin de la Chaume in St-Germain-de-Montbron on the Bandiat river produces walnut and hazelnut oil as well as stoneground flour.
Roman remains and meteorites
The Roman archaeological site of Chassenon (called Cassinomagus and open every day) has been newly revamped and is a fascinating place to visit. See the ancient baths – considered the largest example in Europe – a theatre and other remains as well as recreated Roman gardens, Gallic vegetable plots and glass-making workshops. Nearby, actually in the neighbouring Limousin region, is the town of Rochechouart where 200 million years ago a meteorite 1.5km in diameter crashed here leaving a 20km wide crater – today the only remains are the unusual white stone that is used to build many of the houses but the Espace Météorite is an interesting museum that explains what happened. Further down the road in the town of Chalus is Château de Châlus Chabrol. Now a ruin but open to the public it is here that Richard the Lionheart died on April 5, 1199 during a siege of the town.
The Lakes of the Charente
If you’re not by the coast then the Lacs de haute Charente is a great place to relax by the water. Made up of the neighbouring lakes of Lavaud and Mas Chaban that together make up close to 400 hectares of fresh water. Indulge in all manner of water sports including water-skiing and sailing. Fishing can be done at both lakes but only from the shore and a permit is required. Landlubbers can go a-rambling or bird-watching (at Foucherie, make an appointment to use the hide to see some of the 70 species of bird). On either side of Lake Lavaud, at La Guerlie and Videix (the latter is actually in the Haute-Vienne), are artificial sandy beaches that are shaded by oak and willow trees with plenty of spots for picnicking as well as shops and restaurants. Maison des Lacs; tel 05 45 65 26 69
Take to the water
Canoeing down a river is a popular activity in the Charente, including for children. It's a great way to get another perspective on the countryside and see passing riverside châteaux and mills. You can take to the water on your own in a kayak or share a canoe. The Charente river is a popular route but also recommended is the Tardoire river, especially to the Chambon Gorges. Ask at the tourist office at Montbron. If you’re down that way and want something more to do, go for a walk through the Arboretum Jean Aubouin du Clédou at La Mothe-Clédou (tel 05 45 64 71 58). Created in 1932, it stretches over 10 hectares and the created by the Office National des Forêts allows you to see trees from almost 40 countries including the giant sequoia.
SEE ALSO:
Great Days Out in the Charente-Maritime
Great Days Out in the Deux-Sèvres