Saint-Savin Abbey in the Vienne - a UNESCO World Heritage site for its beautiful Romanesque murals
The Abbey of Saint-Savin sur-Gartempe in the Vienne is famed for its 11th century paintings that have made it a UNESCO World Heritage Site – it has been called the Romanesque Sistine Chapel – but the church itself is also beautiful with its marble-style columns (put in during the 19th century) that are swirls of lovely colour, stretching upwards.
The abbey is said to have been founded in the time of Charlemagne (747-814), to shelter the bodies of two fifth-century martyrs, Savin and Cyprian – the original tomb still survives. It was rebuilt in the 11th century and the murals are from this time. The spire was added in the 14th century.
It suffered, however, during the turbulent centuries that followed, pillaged by the Black Prince, son of Edward III in 1371 then almost destroyed in the 16th century. The abbey ceased to exist as a religious institution during the French Revolution when the monks were thrown out and the abbey transformed into a parish church.
The murals were first restored in the mid-19th century, and then again in between 2005-2008 and now the colours – ochre reds and yellows, browns and greens – are really strong. They portray stories from Genesis and Exodus, in the order in which they are found in the Bible. Some have disappeared but most are still there including Noah’s Ark, the old man drunk and naked sometime later, the Passage through the Red Sea with its rearing horses, and the building of the Tower of Babel.
The latter is one of the reasons the abbey was awarded UNESCO status – the detail shown, from the architect with his set square, to the square design of the fortress and the pulley system used to lift materials to the top of the building – show what life was really like almost 1,000 years ago.
The nave is where the most celebrated murals are, however, there are more on the western porch (the resurrection of Christ) and in the crypt (the martyrdom of Saints Savin and Cyprien.
A visitors guide in English shows in detail the paintings on the ceiling of the nave and explains what each one is. Upstairs, accessible by a lift for those who can't take the stairs, is an excellent museum that covers the history of the abbey and the times it was built in. The explanations are not in English but is well worth a look as it is quite visual too. There is also an excellent shop.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Opening hours:
February and March, November and December: every day 10am-noon and 2pm-5pm. Closed Sunday morning.
April, May and June, and September and October: every day 10am-noon and 2pm-5pm. Closed Sunday morning.
July and August: everyday from 10am-7pm.
Closed November 11, December 25, December 31 and all of January.
Tickets:
Unaccompanied visits:
Adult: €6
Reduced ticket: €4.50
Children under 12 years: free
Guided tours – at 10.30am and 2.30pm, lasting 45 minutes. The tour is in French; English is available but only to groups.
Adult: €6.50
Reduced ticket: €5
Children under 12 years: free
Book online
Contact:
Place de la Libération
86310 SAINT-SAVIN
Tel: 05 49 84 30 00
Website: http://www.abbaye-saint-savin.fr/