Marais Poitevin - take in the beauty of the 'Green Venice' of Poitou-Charentes
Just outside Coulon in the Marais Poitevin there’s a roadside sign that reads: ‘Ralentissez et Admirez’ or ‘Slow down and Admire’. It’s sound advice. This curious region of France occupies not just its own space but seems to operate on its own timescale too. Perhaps it’s something to do with the water but as soon as you enter the Marais Poitevin you can feel life slowing down.
It certainly is a remarkable place. The ‘Marais’ or marsh as it means in English (Poitevin simply means that it’s in the Poitou area) stretches for miles and is made up of natural water channels and man-made canals as well as meadows, dykes and fens that are full of wildlife, from herons to deer. Little wonder that it’s often referred to as the ‘Venise Verte’ or ‘Green Venice’. At 970 square kilometres or nearly 375 square miles it is the largest area of marshland on France’s Atlantic coastline and the second largest anywhere in the country, stretching as it does from just west of Niort in the Deux-Sèvres through the south of the Vendée and the north of the Charente-Maritime just above La Rochelle towards the coast.
One of the dominant features of this landscape – which can be a little eerie in winter – are the poplar trees, which bend and rustle in the wind. But man-made structures have made their mark too, and you can see church spires from miles away, jutting up from the flat landscape into the sky.
Things to do in the Marais Poitevin
The best way to see this beautiful area of canals, rivers and waterways is obviously by boat. The traditional boats used here are flat-bottomed punt-like vessels and these can be hired from various spots throughout the Marais Poitevin – just look out for the word embarcadère, which means pier or wharf. Each village has a mooring are where you float up and then tether your boat while you have a look around or have lunch - the restaurants here specialise in eels and frogs. Now all the villages are accessible by road, but these areas are a reminder of a time when the villages were only accessible by boat.
Boats and canoes can be hired for just an hour or two or a half or whole day. Or you can choose to have a guided boat tour – with commentary in English – or go on an organised two or three day tour of the Marais Poitevin.
Others prefer to see Green Venice on foot or only bike, and there are plenty of places to hire a bicycle in this very flat landscape. It is also possible to take trips in horse-drawn carriages.
Villages to see in the Marais-Poitevin
Though the real star of the show is the water and the landscape, the villages that punctuate the Marais Poitevin are definitely worth a visit. These are two of our favourites...
Coulon is considered the capital of the Venise Verte (Green Venice) and has been officially designated one of the region's most beautiful villages. Here you can see the typical marshlander houses with their white-washed walls and brightly coloured shutters as well as the more elegant Renaissance architecture in white stone. The Maison de Marais Mouillés by the river was once where river taxes were collected. Today it’s a museum where you can learn about the history and life of this atmospheric area. From Coulon you can hire punts and spend a few hours exploring the area. Or take the miniature train. Tourist office: 31, rue Gabriel Auchier; tel 05 49 35 99 29.
Another gem is Arçais, near St Hilaire-la-Palud. Here you can hire a boat and stroll around the old ‘port’ and village. You can also see the old stone cottages lined up along the edge of the waterway and buy a liquor based on Angelica – this area is France’s leading place for growing this traditional herb.
DETAILS
Tourist office: 31 rue Gabriel Auchier, Coulon; tel 05 49 35 99 29
Where to stay in the Marais Poitevin: you’ll find plenty to choose from. There are lots of hotels of all types, plus gîtes and bed and breakfast in which to stay – alternatively you could base yourself in Niort or La Rochelle while you visit the Marais Poitevin.
Where to eat in the Marais Poitevin: there are plenty of restaurants and waterside inns to choose from in the villages in the area. As well, there are picnic areas if you prefer to do your own thing.
Travel: from Niort there are buses that drop you off at Coulon. Otherwise, it’s a 10 minute drive from Niort. The closest airport is at la Rochelle, about two hours away. There is a TGV from Paris to La Rochelle.
Words: Michael STREETER
Photograph: © CHG - Fotolia.com