Tourist attractions and what to see & do in the seaside town of Saint-Palais-sur-Mer
French seaside towns in the Poitou-Charentes have a wonderful laid-back feel and Saint-Palais-sur-Mer is no different. It’s not large which makes getting around stress-free, and on arrival you can feel yourself relax as the views of sand, sea and beautiful architecture start to work their magic as you decide what you want to do.
It’s a great place for a holiday with children as you can choose from a variety of beaches and you’re always near somewhere to find an ice cream! There are also plenty of tourist attractions and things to see and do so if you want to do something other than lie on the sand, you’ll have plenty of choice.
During the summer months the town also puts on a number of festivals including an international fireworks competition that takes place throughout the last half of July. Plus there are regular concerts, markets and exhibitions.
Saint-Palais-sur-Mer has long been a place where the French spend summer by the sea. You can find old postcards and beautiful vintage posters boasting that it was the perfect tourist place to take to the water and sunbathe – the latter becoming fashionable thanks to Coco Chanel. However, the town only became known by its current name in 1920 – before that, thanks to the existence of a customs office, it was called by the less pretty Bureau-les-Bains.
Around the small centre ville the architecture tends to be low-slung and modern but near the beaches you will see the beautiful Belle Epoque villas that remind visitors of its well-heeled history. There are plenty of shops, including supermarkets, so if you want to stock up for a picnic or are self-catering, you don’t have to go far. There’s even a small grocery shop, just off the main drag by the large car park, that stays open until midnight during the summer months. Sacre bleu!
Even if you are self-catering, at least one evening do choose one of the restaurants with a sea-view and tuck into fresh seafood as the setting sun turns the view from pale blue to deep indigo. Then all you can see is the flashing light of the lighthouse of Cordouan in the distance. It’s a wonderful way to end the day – and really feel like you’re on holiday.
SAINT-PALAIS-SUR-MER TOURIST ATTRACTIONS AND WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Beaches
Saint-Palais-sur-Mer has five sandy beaches.
Nauzan: to the east of the centre ville, a reasonably sized beach with people of all ages taking to the water. Behind is a raised promenade dotted with seats so you can take in the view – there is no shade, however, and watch out for roller skaters! There is also a good selection of cafés and restaurants.
Plage du Bureau: in the centre of town it is small but perfectly formed, framed with eye-catching villas at either end and the shops, cafés and restaurants behind. Here, there is entertainment in the evening including a merry-go-round and puppet theatre. The beach also has a children’s club.
Plage du Platin: follow the track from the Plage du Bureau, via Pont de Diable (see below), and you come to this long beach. It is not so family friendly as there are rocks near the surface of the water so you need to be careful. There are no cafés and restaurants but there is a gently sloping hill, with trees, for picnics.
La Grande Côte: by now you’ve reached the beginning of the Côte Sauvage, and this vast beach backed by sand dunes and pine trees is where you’ll start to see surfers. Also of interest are the WWII bunkers that are now classified as historic monuments.
Coastal walks
You can enjoy a coastal walk to the east or west of Saint-Palais-sur-Mer taking the Customs Officers Footpath (le sentier des douaniers). To the west of the town the walk will take you via Pont du Diable (The Devil’s Bridge), a striking rock formation caused by sea erosion. You will also see les carrelets, traditional fishing huts on stilts.
To the east is a popular local walk, the 'Corniche de Nauzan’ which gives you a lovely view of the Belle Epoque villas and the lighthouse of Cordouan.
Water sports
Sandyachting is a favourite activity here as well as sailing and surfing. For more information see www.saint-palais-sur-mer.com or ask for the guide to Activités Nautiques at the tourist office.
Le Vieux Clocher
Just a few hundred metres inland from the beach – take la rue de l’Eglise from the town hall - is this lovely 12th century church. Restored in the late 1990s, it is often the location for local exhibitions. If you have the stamina, climb to the top of the clock tower for a fabulous view of the Gironde estuary, the town and the wildness of the Côte Sauvage.
Just for kids – and adults!
'Le lac de parc de loisirs', situated just behind the covered market, is filled with great things to do if you’re a child, from miniature motorised boats to mini-golf, a playground and skate park. Adults can play tennis and even go fishing although for the latter you need a permit. Tel 05 46 23 79 73
THINGS TO DO AND SEE NEAR SAINT-PALAIS-SUR-MER
Côte Sauvage: see our guide to the Côte Sauvage
La Palmyre Zoo: see 'Animal Magic'
Royan: see our guide to Royan
Rochefort: see our guide to Rochefort
DETAILS:
Tourist office: 1 avenue de la République; tel 05 46 23 22 58
Accommodation: see hotels and B&Bs in Saint-Palais-sur-Mer
Where to eat: see restaurants and cafés in Saint-Palais-sur-Mer
How to get to Saint-Palais-sur-Mer: La Rochelle and Angouleme-Cognac airports are both a two hour drive away. The TGV to La Rochelle from Paris takes about two hours.
Words & photograph: Rachel LOOS