Tourist attractions - what to do and see in Cognac and its historic centre
As you approach the town of Cognac in the Charente, the scenery changes from fields of grazing cattle to neat rows of vines, stretching as far as the eye can see. The town is famous all over the world thanks to cognac, the grape-based spirit that has been made here for the past 300 years - French writer Victor Hugo called it the ‘liquor of the gods’.
Cognac is a town full of history. France’s first king, François 1 was born here in 1494. A contemporary of King Henry VIII of England he is considered France’s first Renaissance king. He gave the town the right to trade salt using the river, so creating the foundations of its commercial success that was further enhanced when it went into cognac production.
The spirit was first made as an alternative to wine as a preventive drink against scurvy – wine was difficult to transport and took up a lot of space. Double-distilled and turned into brandy (cognac) it was more compact and more stable so travelled well but also tasted better after being aged in oak casks.
Today the town of Cognac continues to revolve around the spirit, its fortunes rising and falling according to the popularity of the drink. What never changes is the old town, where the narrow streets are a mix of narrow medieval timber framed houses that once housed the workers and the grander mansions of the wealthy merchants. Look out for the salamander that adorns many of the homes and was the insignia of King François 1.
Down by the river are the blackened chais (warehouses) that still store barrels of cognac, their discoloured state caused by the alcohol evaporating into the surrounding air. The locals call this ‘the angels taking their share’ – sadly, the truth is less romantic as the culprit is a tiny fungus that thrives in the alcohol-laden atmosphere.
THINGS TO SEE & DO
A cognac tour: one of most popular tourist attractions is a tour of one – or more! – of the many cognac producers to learn the history of cognac, how it is made plus enjoy a tasting or two. Most of the big names offer a tour – more information. It’s also worth asking the tourist office about tours of the surrounding vineyards and smaller producers where you can also buy direct.
Château de Cognac: the birthplace of François 1 is now called Château de Cognac. During its illustrious history it hosted the marriage of Richard the Lion Heart’s son to Aurélie de Cognac in 1190. During the French Revolution it was sold as national property and bought in 1795 by cognac producer Baron Otard. Today it is the headquarters of Otard cognac. A tour includes some of the rooms of the château.
Take a cruise on a gaberre: the traditional flat-bottomed oak boat that once used to transport cognac, salt and other produce, today transports visitors along the Charente – a great way to see the town from the river. Tickets are available at the tourist office.
Cognathèque: a permanent exhibition devoted to cognac - see and buy 450 different cognacs as well as 50 types of pineau, the delicious aperitif of the Charente. 8 place Jean-Monnet; tel 05 45 82 43 31; www.cognatheque.com Also at Le Musée des arts du cognac learn more about the history and economic impact of the Cognac industry. Les Remparts - Place de la Salle Verte, Cognac. Work of local artists and collections of art nouveaux glass can be seen at Le Musée d'art et d'histoire; 48 bd Denfert Rochereau, Cognac.
WHAT TO SEE & DO NEAR COGNAC
Musée François Mitterand: in the nearby town of Jarnac, it’s dedicated to former French president François Mitterand who was born in the town. One of France’s most loved and respected presidents, the museum chronicles his life, but also contains the gifts he received from visiting heads of state from around the world when he was president. 10 quai de l’Orangerie, Jarnac; tel 05 45 81 38 88
The Village Gabarrier: the village of Saint Simon was once the site of the Charente’s most important shipyard. Today it’s peaceful but 200 years ago the air was filled with a cacophony of noise as workmen and traders plied their trade. To soak up the history, take a look at the museum, La maison des Gabarriers, which is housed in an elegant old stone building. Your ticket also includes a 90 minute trip on a replica gabarre. Also stroll around town, keeping an eye out for evidence of the past – signs explaining all are posted along the way. Also worth a look is the 12th century church of Saint Sigismond.
Bourg-Charente: take the tow-path from Cognac and follow the river to this medieval chateau that’s overlooked by a grand château owned by the family behind Grand Marnier (unfortunately, it is not open to the public). You can, however, have lunch at the Charente’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, La Ribaudière.
DETAILS
Tourist offices:
Cognac: 16 rue du XIV Juillet; tel 05 45 82 10 71; www.tourism-cognac.com
Jarnac: Place du Château; tel 05 45 81 09 30; www.jarnac-tourisme.com
Accommodation: search hotels and B&Bs in Cognac
Where to eat: search restaurants and cafés in Cognac
Travel: Angoulême airport, with direct flights to the UK during the summer months, is half an hour’s drive away and Poitiers airport, two hours.. The TGV from Paris to Angoulême takes between 90 minutes to two hours.
Boat trips in a gabarre