Côte Sauvage on the Atlantic Coast, Charente-Maritime - wild beauty and great beaches
Long sandy beaches and pounding waves backed by towering forests of pine – the Côte Sauvage on the Atlantic coast in the Charente-Maritime is one of the most spectacular parts of the Poitou-Charentes. If you want a feeling of space and untamed beauty, this is definitely where to head to. Surfers should also haul their boards into the waves that are known for their size and power.
The coastline starts at around La Palymre, north of Royan, and stretches north-west around the point La Tremblade. As well as beaches, the Côte Sauvage is dominated by la Forêt de la Coubre, a huge pine and green oak forest that was first planted in the 19th century to stop erosion in the sea. Today it’s protected and a lovely place to go walking, cycling or even horse-riding. Fancy a scenic drive? Then take the D25 between La Palmyre and Ronce-les-Bains, about 20km long and taking you from the coast through the forest.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Beaches: those facing on the Atlantic are great for surfing, although you do need to be aware of the strong rips. If you want to learn to surf, there are plenty of surf schools where you can hire all equipment plus get lessons. With 30km to choose from, this is where you’re most likely to find a peaceful spot to lay your towel although the roads leading to the Côte Sauvage do get busy during summer, especially weekends and August. Near to La Trembalde is a naturist beach. If you have young children, head for the beach of Bonne Anse bay, where there is also an excellent water park with slides, and other fun things to do.
Forêt de la Coubre: a beautiful and atmospheric place to get away from it all and get close to nature. With the majority of the planting pines and green oak, the forest is light and airy. If you feel like it, you can break up your walking or cycling with regular dips in the sea as the well-marked paths lead you through the forest as well as down to the beach. Serious hikers will like the long-distance footpath, GR4, which links Royan to Ronce-les Bains to the north, via the Forêt de la Coubre. Similarly, long-distance cyclists can choose the 30km trail between Saint-Palais-Sur-Mer via La Palmyre and Ronce-les-Bains, or shorter routes though the forest. There are also specific routes for mountain bikes, plus bridle paths. To go riding choose one of the riding schools nearby.
La Tremblade: a picturesque village where oyster farming and mussels are major industries. You can taste oysters freshly caught from the local producers or wait to have a meal in a restaurant, where you can also tuck into mussels baked under pine needles, a delicious local speciality. If you choose a restaurant in the harbour area of La Grève, you’ll see the coloured cabins lit up in the evening which makes for a pretty sight.
La Coubre: with its red and white colouring and height of 60m, this lighthouse built in 1905, was originally two kilometres inland from the shore but erosion means that it is now just a few hundred metres away. One of France’s most powerful lighthouses with a range of 50km, if you have the stamina you can climb the 300 steps of the spiral staircase to the top for a fantastic view over the Gironde estuary, the Cordouan Lighthouse, the Pointe de Grave headland, The Gironde coast, the Côte Sauvage, the Arvert peninsula and, further north, the Ile d’Oléron.
Zoo de la Palmyre: One of the best zoos in Europe that’s set in 14 hectares in the Forêt de la Courbe. It has more than 1,600 types of animal from all five continents including the polar bears – make sure you see their enclosure - and snow leopards to Siberian tigers, elephants, monkeys and apes. Les Mathes; tel 08 92 68 18 48
L’île d’Oléron: France’s largest island after Corsica is just off the Côte Sauvage coast, connected to the mainland by a bridge near Marennes on the other side of the Seudre river. Explore the island and see its varied landscape, from pine forests and sand dunes to marshland and salt beds, soaring cliffs and long, sandy beaches. In the summer months the scents of mimosa and oleander are carried on the sea breeze, wafting over the many holidaymakers (the island is a French favourite). Cycling is a popular way to see the island, and it is possible to rent bicycles and go off on your own or join an organised tour.
Words: Rachel LOOS
Photographs: Drosera - istock.com; Shuttestock